Sixteen jobs. Sixteen proper descriptions.

Whole-property rewires for houses whose cabling belongs to a different century.

A rewire is the big one: new cabling throughout, more circuits than the house was built with, sockets where you actually want them, a new consumer unit at the centre of it and the whole installation tested and certificated at the end. Where possible the work runs room by room so the property stays liveable, chases are made good rather than left for your plasterer, and the order of work is planned around whoever else is booked in. Worth a proper look and a written quotation rather than a figure over the phone.

First and second fix for extensions, loft conversions, garages and garden rooms.

New build, extension, loft conversion, garage or garden office — the wiring wants planning before the plasterboard goes on, not afterwards. That means agreeing socket and switch positions on site while the studs are still open, running circuits with a bit of spare capacity for whatever the room becomes in five years, and getting supplies out to outbuildings in armoured cable rather than an extension lead under the lawn.

More power and more aerial points, without a bank of trailing adaptors.

The most-requested job on the list and the one most often bodged: a double socket behind the television, a pair in the home office, one in the loft for the aerial amplifier, an outdoor socket by the back door. Done properly it means a spur or a new circuit — whichever the existing wiring can actually support — chased in, made good, and tested. It is also the cheapest way to stop a house running on four-way adaptors.

Electric showers wired on their own circuit, in the right cable, with the right protection.

An electric shower pulls more current than almost anything else in a house, which is why it wants a dedicated circuit in correctly sized cable, an isolator outside the room and RCD protection. Upgrading from an 8.5kW unit to a 10.5kW one is not a like-for-like swap — the cable and the way in the board often have to change with it. That gets checked before anything is ordered, not after it is on the wall.

Electric cookers, ovens and hobs connected on a proper cooker circuit.

Freestanding cooker, built-in oven, induction hob or a combination of the lot — each has its own load, and the answer is rarely "it'll be fine on the ring main". Existing cooker circuits are checked for capacity and condition, the cooker switch is placed where you can actually reach it without leaning across the hob, and the connection is made and tested rather than left dangling behind the unit for the kitchen fitter.

Old boards replaced with modern consumer units — and every way labelled properly.

If your board is a rewireable fuse box, or a plastic unit with a single RCD covering the whole house, replacing it is the single biggest safety improvement most homes can make. The board is swapped, the earthing and main bonding are sorted at the same time — the bit that quietly gets skipped — and every way is labelled so the next person to open the cupboard knows what is what. Notifiable work, so it is certificated on completion.

One-off or periodic testing and inspection, domestic and commercial, with a written report.

A full periodic inspection and test looks at the whole installation rather than the bit that has stopped working: the condition of the board and the cabling, earthing and bonding, insulation resistance, the state of accessories, and whether anything has been added over the years that should not have been. You get a written report with coded observations, an explanation of which ones actually matter, and a price for putting them right — not a verbal "that'll be fine".

Electrical safety certificates for rented property in Buckinghamshire, including remedial work.

Landlords letting property in England need a satisfactory inspection report for the electrical installation, renewed at least every five years and at the start of a new tenancy where the existing report has run out. The inspection is booked around the tenant rather than the other way round, anything coded as needing attention is quoted separately so you can see what is required and what is merely advisable, and the paperwork arrives in a form you can hand straight to the agent.

Something keeps tripping and nobody can tell you why. This is that job.

Fault finding is detective work: isolating circuits one at a time, testing insulation resistance, and tracking down the appliance, the buried nail, the perished cable or the water ingress that is taking out your RCD. It is methodical rather than quick, and the point of paying someone with twenty years of it behind them is that they have already met your fault in somebody else's house.

Emergency lighting for shops, offices and units — installed, tested and logged.

Emergency lighting is the sort of thing nobody thinks about until an inspection is due. Fittings are placed where they will actually do something — escape routes, changes of level, final exits and near firefighting equipment — rather than dotted about to make a drawing look tidy. Existing systems can be tested and the results written up, which is usually what the insurer or the licensing officer is asking for.

Under-cabinet and plinth lighting that lights the worktop, not your eyes.

Under-cabinet LED tucked behind the shadow gap so the worktop glows and the fitting itself disappears, on a driver matched to the tape so nothing flickers at the bottom of the dimmer. Best planned with the kitchen fitter before the units land — the switching, the driver location and the feed all want deciding while there is still a hole to run cable through.

Exterior, security and PIR lighting that comes on when it should and not at every passing cat.

Wall lights, soffit downlights, floodlights and PIR-controlled security lighting, all in fittings rated for where they are actually going and fed in the right cable. The sensor placement matters as much as the fitting: aimed properly, a security light covers the approach to the house and ignores the pavement, which is the difference between a deterrent and a nuisance to the neighbours.

A garden scheme designed as a whole, then installed in armoured cable.

Garden lighting done as a design rather than a row of spikes: uplighters on the trees worth looking at, a low wash along the path, something on the back of the house so the terrace is usable in October, and the whole lot zoned so you are not lighting the shed to have supper outside. Supplies run in armoured cable at the right depth, with RCD protection and switching from inside.

Shops, offices and units — installation and maintenance, not just domestic.

Residential, commercial and industrial customers are all on the same list. That covers shop and office fit-outs, three-phase supplies to machinery, distribution board work, high-bay and fluorescent lighting replacement, small-power alterations when an office is reorganised, and the ongoing maintenance that keeps a unit running. Work is scheduled around trading hours where it needs to be.

Thermostats, programmers, zone valves and the wiring centre behind them.

The electrical half of a heating system: programmers and room thermostats, cylinder stats, motorised valves and the wiring centre that ties them together. Often the reason one zone stays cold or the hot water runs when nobody asked for it. Upgrading to a smart or programmable thermostat is usually straightforward — though it is worth checking what is actually behind the old one before the box is opened.

Quotations cost nothing, and the working day is not the only option.

Quotations are free and carry no obligation — ring, describe the job, and you will get a straight answer about what is involved before money comes into it. Out-of-hours appointments are available on request, which matters for shops that cannot shut, offices that cannot lose a day, and anyone whose fuse board sits in a room they can only empty at the weekend.